The Fox & Hounds, Hunsdon – A Comprehensive Review of Food, Atmosphere, and History
Discover the Fox & Hounds in Hunsdon: A Michelin-Recommended Pub with Rich History and Delicious Dining
History seeps through the timbers of The Fox & Hounds in Hunsdon, a building that has stood since 1670. Originally a yeoman’s residence known as Hickmans, it later transformed into a public house in 1819 under the stewardship of Edmund Calvert, who aptly renamed it from The Horse and Groom to its current moniker. Positioned on the main coach route between London and Bishop’s Stortford, it was a bustling stopover for weary travelers, its yard and stables alive with the clamor of horses and coaches. Today, under the ownership of James and Bianca Rix, the pub balances its storied past with contemporary hospitality, earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand every year since 2012.
The interiors, while initially impressive, reveal a certain lack of cohesion upon closer inspection. The beautiful old architecture—with its exposed beams and stone walls—offers a stunning backdrop that deserves to take center stage. However, the addition of modern design elements feels tentative, as though unsure of how far to commit. The result is a space that feels muddled rather than harmonious. Leaning into the heritage of the building with more rustic and authentic furnishings would have lent the interior a greater sense of identity and upmarket charm. The contrast is particularly noticeable with the tables, which feel out of place—more suited to a corporate canteen than a thoughtfully restored pub. It’s a curious oversight that detracts from the otherwise inviting ambiance.
In an era when walk-ins at popular establishments are often met with a polite but firm rejection, the Fox & Hounds displayed a rare and refreshing hospitality. Despite being visibly stretched on a bustling evening, they managed to find us a table with grace and efficiency. This was a prelude to a memorable evening, though not without its quirks.
The ambience, though generally convivial, teetered on cacophony. The lively chatter of patrons created a buzz that, while vibrant, begged for some soft background music to smooth the edges. Without it, the din occasionally tipped from atmospheric to overwhelming.
The food, however, was a revelation. A Tuscan chestnut soup started the meal on a high note. This warming bowl of nutty, spicy depth was both novel and comforting. It struck a delicate balance, hearty but not overly filling. Yet, the presentation faltered; a sprinkle of fresh herbs or a touch of color might have transformed its “canned soup” appearance into something more befitting its rich flavor.
The main course—locally shot venison loin with red cabbage, celeriac, and potato gratin, all finished with a sauce poivrade—was nothing short of extraordinary. The venison was tender, perfectly cooked, and sang in harmony with its accompaniments. The tangy cabbage cut through the richness, while the gratin provided a smooth, creamy counterpoint. The sauce poivrade added an elegant depth that elevated the dish. If only the presentation matched the taste; its rustic plating fell short of its sophisticated flavors.
Dessert brought the meal to a delightful close. Profiteroles with hazelnut praline ice cream and hot chocolate sauce managed to be indulgent without overwhelming. The pastry was light and impossibly fresh, the ice cream luxuriously thick and textured, bordering on the clotted cream richness that whispers of homemade charm. The dish was a triumph of flavor and balance.
The wine, a carafe of Malbec ‘Camille’ from Château du Cèdre, proved an inspired pairing with the venison. This Cahors beauty, lauded for its plush dark fruit, spice, and velvety tannins, melded seamlessly with the dish’s rich flavors. Its subtle earthiness echoed the venison’s gamey notes, while the black cherry and plum complemented the tangy cabbage and creamy gratin. A glass (or two) of this was not just an accompaniment but an enhancement.
The service throughout the evening was nothing short of exemplary. Despite the palpable busyness, the staff were attentive, warm, and unflappable—a true testament to their professionalism and cohesion as a team.
The Fox & Hounds may not yet be at the pinnacle of culinary perfection—its presentation could benefit from refinement, and its tables need an upgrade—but it delivers where it matters most: flavor, service, and atmosphere. This is a pub that knows how to make you feel at home while serving food worth remembering.
Rating: 3/5